After a week of struggling without internet access, I went to Kabul’s only 5 star hotel Friday night to plug in. Just one year ago, Taliban gunmen stormed the the Serena Hotel – killing six and injuring six more. Today, it is one of the most heavily guarded buildings in Kabul and is now surrounded by heavy concrete barriers, like the ones that now protect most of D.C.

The Serena is not alone. Virtually every building, house and street in Kabul has at least one armed guard, if not many more. Kabul is relatively more secure and more developed than most other parts of Afghanistan. But it’s hardly safe, and far from developed. Most Afghans that I have spoken with (a small subset of the country, I admit) seem to welcome additional troops as a necessary part of development and progress – for most Afghans, this means consistent power, water, decent schools and paved roads.

Just North of Kabul sits the Panjsher Valley. It was once Afghanistan’s main tourist destination. If there are any tourists in Afghanistan today, Panjsher would be the one place safe enough to visit.

Since I am more a visitor right now than an employed journalist, I decided to head up there this past weekend.

It’s beautiful. Sharp rugged mountains, with bright blue water rushing through its valleys. Despite years of fighting, it’s one of the few areas the Soviets never controlled. The Mujahedin kept the Soviets busy with constant attacks. The valley is still littered with Soviet tanks, missiles and armored personnel carriers.

The leading Mujahedin military commander in Panjsher was Ahmed Shah Massoud. Although a Tajik, he is widely respected by all Afghans because of his leadership  – not only against the Soviets, but also later against the Taliban. He is revered. Think part George Washington, part Che Guevara. Many government offices have his photo right next to Hamid Karzai, the current Afghan President.

Two of Osama bin Ladin’s suicide bombers killed him just days before 9/11 and his grave sits on a hill top over looking Panjsher.

What does this have to do with security and success?

Despite 30 some years of heavy warfare, the Panjsher Valley is one of the few places in Afghanistan that is on the rebound. The main road is paved. Bridges are being rebuilt.

Farmers are growing apples, apricots and other goods. Schools are open and life, while still difficult, is improving. This is all thanks to its security. It’s not only safe for Afghans, but also for Westerns. Most of the NGO types in Kabul visit the valley at least once every few months.

Afghans will tell you that the success in Panjsher is do in large part to its peace.

My  only complaint about Panjsher  – the Eagles fans!